First-time Riesling drinkers may find this wine a bit of a wild card. Your wine-drinking experience can vary greatly, depending on which bottle you pick off of the shelf.

The nose. The one thing you can be sure of is the signature Riesling perfume — all good Rieslings carry a strong floral bouquet.

The taste. Compared with its welcoming and upfront aroma, the way a Riesling tastes may be surprising. Rather than the big fruits and florals you were expecting, you’ll find tastes that are harder to pinpoint. Think quirky metallic or flinty hints.

Sweet or dry. Rieslings can also range from bone dry to semisweet. The old-fashioned German Liebfraumilch, a heavy semisweet wine, gave sweet Rieslings a bad name, but these days there are refreshingly bright incarnations. Just make sure to read your label carefully, and confirm with wine store staff if you’re unsure.

The acid. The grape grows in colder climates, and the acidity that results from that environment makes this wine a mouthwatering appetite opener, the perfect for cold starters such as salads and ceviches.